Where: Mt Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and Glacier Peak Wilderness, Mountain Loop Highway
What: Hiking (non-technical), Scramble (class II)
When: 18 August 2018
Washington Trail Association Links:
Appropriate Maps:
- National Geographic Maps:
- Glacier Peak Wilderness #827
- This provided a good overview of the area/surrounding area south and east of Mount Pugh
- There are no distance markings for this trail.
- This particular trail is in the upper left corner on the south side portion of the map.
- Glacier Peak Wilderness #827
- Green Trails Map:
- Mountain Loop Highway, Map 111SX *** Best Map for the Hike ***
- The distance between the sections of the hike are clear and accurate for this trail.
- This map has more micro details and its easier to see the contours.
- Mountain Loop Highway, Map 111SX *** Best Map for the Hike ***
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Overall Difficulty:
Moderate to strenuous during most sections. The hike up to the boulder field was the easy part. From the boulder field up to the summit ranges from moderate to difficult. Once on the ridgleline above Stujack Pass, if you are afraid of heights this is likely a good turnaround for you because the rest of the trail will be semi-exposed with very steep sides. Once you get to the end of the ridgeline the rock scramble up the steep trail begins. Solid holds and footing most of the way up. There are semi-exposed areas on the upper part of this hike.
Gear Load-out:
- Pack [Amazon Link]
- 3L Hydration Reservoir [Amazon Link]
- First Aid Kit
- Sunglasses [Amazon Link]
- Food
- Compass
- Maps (links above)
- Hat
- 1x pair extra socks
- Light warming layer
- Light rain jacket (not needed but always carry just in case)
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Getting to the Trailhead:
From Alrington Park and Ride, head north on WA-9 then take a right onto WA-530 (Burke Ave). Continue east on WA-530 for 27.9 miles. Once you get to Darrington WA-530 will T into the Mountain Loop Highway. Turn right onto Mountain Loop Highway and continue driving south for about 12.5 miles. Around 9.5miles in, the road turns to gravel the rest of the way. Turn left (hard left, almost a U-turn) onto NF-2095. There is a sign marking the road for Mt Pugh Trailhead so it is pretty easy to see/find. Continue up the forest road for about 1.5miles. Just before you get to the 1.6mile mark on your odometer, you will make the last switchback turn. Shortly after the turn, ie less than 0.1mile, the trailhead is on your right. The trailhead is hard to see as you drive past it but you are there. If you make it to the next switchback, you have gone too far.
The road will continue past the trailhead, but there is nothing past it. Parking could be tight on the weekends. We got there around 7:20 and there were only 3 other cars, but they had not been parked long. Park smartly on the sides but try not to park in the noticeable areas to turn your vehicle around.
Parking Just Before the last Switchback Parking at the Last Switchback
Vehicle Clearance: I rode in my friend’s SUV and there definitely no issues. Back in early July when I made the trip, I drove my Hyundai Accent with no issues. The forest road narrow most of the way but there are some pull outs briefly along the way.
Google Maps Directions: Google Driving Directions From The Park & Ride at Arlington, WA
Permits:
You only need a National Parks/Forest or Northwest National Forest Pass for this hike. There are no backcountry permits needed to camp along the trail but be cognizant of the Wilderness rules for camping [reference here].
Cell Service:
You are likely to not have any cell service the entire time once you leave the Darrington, WA area.
Day Trip:
Pack Weight Start: Did Not Measure, est 10lbs. You certainly don’t need a large pack like I used, but because it is really comfortable, I cinched everything down to carry my load. It was very comfortable the entire way and not bulky. A very light day-pack would be sufficient for anyone.
Osprey Atmos AG 50 Osprey Atmos AG 50
Mt Pugh Trailhead to Lake Metan. 0hr 39min. 569 cal.
From the trailhead to Lake Metan is about 1.8miles with about a 1280ft elevation difference. The initial part of the hike starts out on some soft soil at 1900ft above sea-level going through the thick forest surroundings. You will cross a couple of creeks on the long stretch before you get to the first switch pack. This is a pretty easy trail with very little obstructions, though there are a couple of downed trees that you will have to crawl over or under.
The second major stream crossing has some large rocks that you can step on to cross without getting your feet wet. A little bit after that stream crossing you’ll start hitting the switchbacks to get up to Lake Metan. At the start of the switchbacks, this is about the halfway point. The switchbacks are pretty gentle in a lot of the sections, so there is nothing too drastic. We had passed one of the hiking parties around the time we got to the first switchback. We were moving pretty quickly starting out and arrived at Lake Metan in about 40 minutes. 45-60minutes would probably be more typical for most casual hikers.
Lake Metan to Boulder Field. 1hr 34 min (55min). 1376 cal (807 cal difference).
When you get to the lake, the trail T’s. Keep left. If you go right it just takes you to what could be a decent camping area at the lake. When arrived at the lake, there was party of 2 hikers that were taking a quick break.
After staying left, you start gaining some elevation and then start the next series of switchbacks. Some of the switchbacks are pretty long and gradual, while others are shorter and moderately steeper. We were continuing to move pretty quickly. The closer we got to the bounder field the more downed trees there were (at east it seemed that way), but only a couple that you have to actually cross over. The downed trees in the upper portion before getting to the boulder field are likely the result of various avalanche over the years, though in some areas rock/boulder falls could have contributed for some.
In a little under an hour we got to the boulder field. There was another group of 2 people a little bit ahead. We took a little break but not for long. This is the view up to where we would be heading next, Stujack Pass(about a third of the way from the left side of the picture). This boulder field is pretty dramatic from the bottom, but gets more impressive the further up you get and get a good look of the lower portion of the boulder field with more overview in the context of it all.
In the picture, from Stujack Pass all the way to the right side of the picture is the ridgeline you will be following. From this angle, you don’t have a clear appreciation for the sheer distance, but there is a picture later on that will give you a good glimpse into the valley from along that ridgeline. Also you can see the haze in the air as a result of the wildfires from Canada and northeast of Mt Pugh in the North Cascades.
Boulder Field to Stujack Pass. 2hr 5 min (31min). 1838 cal (462 cal difference).
When you exit out of the trees, the trail is to your right. You may notice the rock markers on the ground during the summer, when I hiked the route back in early July the area was built up with snow still. Once you get past the final few trees, you’ll make your way onto the rock rubble.
After gaining some elevation, the smell of smoke in the air was very apparent and you could really see it looking down toward the Sauk River, as you will notice in the rest of the pictures from this hike. The smoke certainly didn’t hinder us nor cause any concern as it was not dense. The the following pictures you can also get an idea of the rock rubble in the boulder field.
As we got further up, there was more colorful wildflowers. Purples, yellows, reds and whites. The trail at this point was starting to become more switchbacks as we gained more elevation in the valley up toward Stujack pass. The wasn’t anything difficult through the boulder field so if you are a beginner you should be okay. There was one area toward the toward where you just need to jump a little bit to get over a run-off stream, which was dried up this late in the season. Nothing to worry about though.
About 30 minutes later I was at Stujack Pass. My hiking buddy had continued on while I was taking pictures throughout the boulder field so he was a little bit ahead of me the rest of the way from here. The following pictures are from Stujack Pass. The first (left) is the view looking down toward where you enter the boulder field. You can certainly see the smoky air in the background.
On a clear day, you would be looking southwest toward Mt Forgotten and Big Four. Better luck next time. The center photo is the view on the opposite side of the pass. Back in July, this was full of snow. This late, in the year, I was a little surprised to still see some snow, but it is the north side slope. On this side of Stujack pass is Glacier Peak Wilderness. Had it been clear, you would be looking out toward White Chuck Mountain. The picture to the right is the sign marking the boundary into Glacier Peak Wilderness.
At this point, it was time to get some nutrition and calories to keep me going. I had combined some granola (peanut butter and almond batches) with some dried blueberries and raisins. I’m starting to experiment with what combinations of trail mixes and granola mixtures are better for calories, desirability, and flavor. Something I have noticed over the years is that some pre-made trail mixes just are not exciting or desirable, but I know I need to consume them to gain the necessary calories along the way. By making my own and experimenting I can find what works best for me. I’ll eventually post more information about the various mixtures (i.e. proportions, recipes) in case any one else wants to explore the same.
Stujack Pass to Mt Pugh Summit. 3hr 2 min (57min). 2673 cal (835 cal difference).
After the quick break, I continued on up the trail that would take me up to the ridgeline. Back in early July this was the area where snow made the trip more difficult as the slope is pretty steep when you don’t know where the trail is. After making my way up, I could see the area I had to stop and turn around on my hike. I was almost there, but at the time I was hiking solo and I didn’t feel the risk in conjunction with the thick cloud cover was worth it. For me, its far better to play it safe and return another time than to take on unnecessary risks.
Now the good part! The ridgeline. Once you get to the ridgeline, if you are afraid of heights then this might be a good turnaround point for you. Preview the trail and drop-off in the pictures below. Despite the apparent exposure here, you have a good amount of space on the trail that there is no need to tip-toe. The views are quite exciting looking down into the valley and boulder field you just hiked out of. The view gives you a better appreciation of the elevation difference than looking up from the tree-line when you first enter the boulder field.
In the second and third picture below you can see the trail characteristics at different points along the ridgeline. There was a spot between the two pictures that had a couple of flat areas that looked quite suitable for an overnight spot. Potentially in early to mid-summer, this might be an adequate spot for sunrise and sunset, but I think the summit would be more ideal.
Boulder field below the ridgeline Ridgeline trail Ridgeline trail
After traversing across the ridgeline, you will come upon a saddle area between the ridgeline and the start of the rock scramble to get up to the summit of Mt Pugh. The rock scramble is basically a Class II, but only on short portions. If you are afraid of heights, again, this might be an area to turn around because you will have more exposure past this point.
The picture to the left is the snowfield/glacier on the north side of the saddle. After the initial part of the scramble you will begin to notice more and more cairn marking the direction of the path you should take. For those that are new to hiking, cairn are man-made piles of rocks/stones. Whenever you see cairn along a non-apparent trail, they serve as trail markers that help you navigate from one to the next until the trail becomes more clear. Some are more elaborate than others.
In the center picture you can see one of the cairn silhouetted in the center of the picture. Further up the trail I stopped to look at the rust streaks scattered throughout the area, though the area contained more granite than the hodgepodge rock. I find it interesting to look at these rocks closely. You can see the black lichen on top of the rust colored rock. In the fourth picture below you can look back at the ridgeline you just crossed. The smoky haze makes it hard to see the details and what lay beyond view.
After about an hour since leaving Stujack Pass, I made it to Mt Pugh summit. My hiking buddy had been up there for about 15 minutes already. Thats the cost of taking pictures along the way, which I find to be part of the hiking experience for me. The summit is a bonus. Today the view from the summit wasn’t anything to be excited about. Look at the dense smoky in every direction! Ill have to plan another trip next summer or the coming fall/winter on a clear day to really be able to take in the views.
After studying the maps for the area, I have a pretty good idea of what to expect but seeing it in person adds so much more to the experience. At the summit you’ll find three USGS Survey Markers embedded into of the fixed granite boulders. From the center marker it looks like it was placed back in 1965. Off all the text on their, the elevation number is the one that you can’t really read. According to my Green Trails Map, Mt Pugh is 7201ft above sea-level for what it’s worth.
Looking South Looking South at unnamed peak USGS Survey Marker
After taking my pictures, I continued to try to look around the area and eat some more food for the trip back down. There was a chipmunk roaming around, likely seeking fallen morsels from fellow travelers.
Mt Pugh Summit To Mt Pugh Trailhead. 6hr 23min (3hr 21min). 4621cal (1948 cal difference).
After about a 20 minute break we set off back down the trail. The trip down is typically much quicker, but I knew the portion I just finished from the saddle to the summit would be taken a little more slowly so I wouldn’t chance a slip and fall down the steep mountain sides. As I got closer to the saddle area, there were several look back opportunities view the mountainside.
Its interesting to view the broken and shattered boulders like those in the picture. I try to imagine what they looked like at one point. All those decades, centuries and millenia of freezing and thawing cycles, as well as seismic activity, to produce mostly untouched landscapes such as these. Along the trail, I also came across these wildflowers growing amidst the rocks. In such austere environments, life and beauty strive without human intervention.
On a clear day this panoramic view would look amazing, but in the meantime this will have to do.
By this point it was starting to heat up. Luckily we were at the top of the boulder field, meaning that we would only have about half an hour left in the sun, and well before the true heat of the day would arrive. On the way down, it seemed as though the colors from the wildflowers were much more apparent and brighter. Maybe just the lighting. Still good views though.
We got back to the start of the boulder field around 12:24 so we made good time on that stretch. Now the rest of the hike would a stroll downhill under the forest canopy, which was much cooler than the boulder field. The lower we got, the cooler it seemed. Over the next hour and half, we made our way pretty casually along the soft trail. Around 13:57, we arrived back at the trailhead. Minus the 20minute break at the summit it was about a 6hr round-trip. Not a bad day, even though we didn’t get much of the long-distance views. I will just have to come back for another day.
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Total Mileage: ~11.4 miles
Total Elevation: ~5300ft
Start Time: ~0733
Finish Time: ~1357 (6hr 23min)
Est Calories: 4621
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